Monday’s whispers: Stéphanie and David Le Quellec take over the former Rech, Paolo Boscaro arrives at Les Foudres in Cognac, Anne-Sophie Pic at St Géran in Mauritius, Pierre Gagnaire cooks for seniors, handover to the ‘Ermitage in Saulges, a new chef for Westminster | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

Stéphanie and David Le Quellec take over the ex-Rech

Pierre Rigothier, Stéphanie and David Le Quellec © DR

Stéphanie Le Quellec, who now works with her husband David, the former chef of the Moulin Rouge and the Hilton Saint-Lazare, and has hired Pierre Rigothier, from the Baudelaire, at the Burgundy, to replace her in her two-star table at the avenue Matignon, has just taken over the former Rech, which Alain Ducasse had made a fine fishmonger’s table on avenue des Ternes. The house, with its shell bench and its two floors, is about to come back to life, thanks to the Costa agency, in the form of a table dedicated to seafood products. The name of the place: “Vive “. David, who has not forgotten his Breton roots, will have a field day with sustainable fishing products. It should be noted that the Le Quellecs, who are already present in the 17th arrondissement of Paris with their grocer/caterer Mam, in the former Italian table of Rocco Anfuso, are redesigning the gourmet geography of the district in their playful way.

Paolo Boscaro arrives at Les Foudres in Cognac

Paolo Boscaro © DR

We have been following him since L’Escargot 1903. The brilliant Paolo Boscaro, who worked for Anne-Sophie Pic in Lausanne at the Beau-Rivage Palace, will take over from Marc-Antoine Lepage at the starred table of the beautiful Chai Monnet hotel. in Cognac. This Franco-Italian, trained in large houses such as Lasserre, Le Carré des Feuillants, Le Meurice alongside Yannick Alléno or even La Grande Cascade, with Frédéric Robert and Véfour with Guy Martin, was Kei Kobayashi’s second in the restaurant eponymous Parisian, before heading the kitchens of l’Escargot 1903 in Puteaux, where he obtained a first star in 2017. In Cognac, in the majestic setting of the gastronomic restaurant Les Foudres, topped by the impressive “cathedral cellar”, he has the mission to keep the star obtained in 2021 and to continue to shine the Charente terroir with its light and personal touch.

Anne-Sophie Pic at St Géran in Mauritius

Anne-Sophie Pic © Anne-Emmanuelle Thion

Holder of 9 Michelin stars, present in Valence, Lausanne, Paris, Megève, Singapore and London, Anne-Sophie Pic is preparing to open her eighth address at One & Only Saint-Géran in Mauritius. The name of this winter table – scheduled from October 2022 to March 2023, at least: “La Dame de Pic at Prime”. On its peninsula and its luxury beach, the Saint-Géran, which in the past hosted big names in French and international restaurants, such as Alain Ducasse, Michel Rostang or Vineeth Bathia, puts the dishes in the big ones with a formula that reinterprets the Mauritian tradition in the fine manner of the three stars of the Drôme. His signature dishes? They will be called checkerboard of foie gras and octopus and bouillabaisse jelly, tomato in burrata ice cream and smoked vanilla whipped cream or even lobster delicately cooked in coconut and its bisque infused with Chamarel rum. Vast and attractive program, the General would have said!

Pierre Gagnaire cooks for seniors

Pierre Gagnaire © Stéphane de Bourgies

After Mama Shelter where they have fun transgressing the lines of the luxury hotel industry, Serge and Jérémie Trigano are shaking up the codes of housing for seniors, with their Casa Barbara. This new kind of place to live, located in the Parisian suburbs, in the heart of Levallois-Perret, is the pilot fish of a new chain. A unique establishment where the pleasures of meeting and sharing, of culture and gastronomy, of creativity and comfort, of intimacy and exchange converge. The house’s gourmet advisor is none other than Pierre Gagnaire, who signs menus and recipes that are renewed each season. Residents get together, from breakfast to dinner, for gourmet moments in a 60-seat restaurant open outside. Trained by MOF Michel Nave, a faithful collaborator of Pierre Gagnaire, chef Olfa Labidi offers the cuisine imagined by the great Pierre. Tasty combinations, precise seasonings, just cooking. ” This collaboration with Casa Barbara fascinates me. I put everything I like into the menus and recipes, healthy and good products, offered with recipes and at the pace that I like. A musical setting that chef Olfa will take up with her whole team and which will delight the inhabitants of the Casa and the guests of the restaurant. », points out Pierre Gagnaire. The restaurant is open to outside guests for lunch every day of the week (from 12 p.m. to 2 p.m.) as well as Friday and Saturday evenings for dinner.

Handover at the Hermitage in Saulges

Christian Possémé, Fanny Béron, Stéphane Lalfond © GP

Famous for half a century, already known thirty years ago under the leadership of the good Mr. Janvier, this beautiful gourmet hotel in Mayenne, not far from Sarthe and Anjou, which has seen the passing of excellent chefs, including Philippe Guignard, who excels at the Prieuré in Azé, has changed master chef, but not style. The young Fanny Béron, 34, trained at the Palace in Biarritz with Jean-Marie Gauthier, worked with Sébastien Gravé at Les Fables de la Fontaine and with Pottoka in the 7th arrondissement in Paris, then left for Nouméa in New Caledonia on the return trip, resumes the torch of Stéphane Lalfond, a Breton from Rennes, who is preparing to create a luxury gîte with tables d’hôtes in Coulon in the heart of the Marais poitevin, all under the watchful eye of the inn owner Christian Possémé, who once passed in the Accor group. The house is in any case worth the visit for its seriousness and its regularity according to its positive changes.

A new leader for Westminster

Cyril Russo © DR

We thought the Céladon, rue Daunou, definitively closed and the Westminster of the rue de la Paix on gastronomy leave. Here is the young Cyril Russo, 33, who takes over the reins of this house which was once starred for thirty years and in particular with Christophe Moisand. The new chef, who came from Nice, trained in Monaco, at the Yacht Club, then with Philippe Joannes at the Fairmont and Benoit Witz at the Vistamar de l’Hermitage before flying to the island of Saint-Martin and joining the brigade of Serge Gouloumès at Samanna. From 2018 to 2019 he was second in the kitchen to Anne-Sophie Pic in Valence. His new challenge: to give a new gourmet identity to Céladon, which has become a chic bistro, after the departure of Christophe Moisand, then of his former second in command, Hugues Mbenda.

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