In Paris, two restaurants that border on excellence to discover urgently

Restaurant L’Envolée at La Demeure Montaigne

It’s a chic hotel restaurant just a stone’s throw from Avenue Montaigne, a luxury five-star hotel nestled in a peaceful street in this oh-so-famous district.

Behind the majestic Haussmann façade of La Demeure Montaigne, Parisian spirit and contemporary luxury mingle. It is an intimate place that welcomes epicureans and lovers of the City of Light, which combines the excellence of French hospitality and the charm of a private mansion.

The Thomas family, which manages four Parisian hotels, has restored this bourgeois house and has housed an elegant, quiet, discreet restaurant with fifty seats on the ground floor. From the opening, success was there, especially at lunchtime, simmered by the excellent chef Grégory Réjou. The latter, trained for two years by Alain Senderens, went through Le Plaza, Le Lasserre and Le 39V of Frédéric Vardon, Alain Ducasse’s former right-hand man. It’s called a dream culinary education.

Chef Grégory Réjou in the kitchen. | Jerome Mondiere

The name of the restaurant, L’Envolée, is a tribute to the gigantic mobile made by the sculptor François Lavrat representing a flock of birds flying from the bar to the sky. Located in an old inner courtyard, the restaurant has been transformed into a bright winter garden with a glass roof and a fireplace to warm the atmosphere in case of cold temperatures.

The menu offers seductive, attractive, tasty and modern dishes. There is a real professional of saucepans who approaches excellence.

To share

  • The board of black ham from the Aldudes valley, guindillas (small green peppers) and chorizo ​​from the Oteiza house (25 euros).
  • Eggplant caviar, hummus and guacamole, herb focaccia (15 euros).
  • The plate of smoked fish from the island of Groix (28 euros).
  • Ossetra Prestige Kaviari caviar (30 grams) and blinis (95 euros).

The entrees

  • Poultry and guinea fowl pâté with Espelette pepper, pickled vegetables. A nice start that can satisfy the fine beaks (21 euros).

At the restaurant L’Envolée, the pie. | Jerome Mondiere

  • Soft-boiled and breaded organic egg with chorizo, pumpkin risotto, renewed with tact (19 euros).
  • Roasted white asparagus, cream of lettuce with hazelnut butter (21 euros).
  • The snacked octopus and Oscietre Kaviari caviar, red onion condiment, perhaps the best dish among the starters (36 euros).
  • Beet and tofu ravioli with herbs, coffee sauce (18 euros).

At the L’Envolée restaurant, beet and tofu ravioli with herbs. | Jerome Mondiere

The dishes

  • The langoustine and green asparagus ravioli from Christophe Latour, bisque for sauce (35 euros).
  • The yellow Landes poultry from Mr. Tausin smoked with hay, root vegetables (32 euros).
  • Brittany pollack, artichoke, parsley condiment (32 euros).

At the restaurant L’Envolée, the pollack of Brittany. | Jerome Mondiere

  • Rack and saddle of lamb, summer vegetables, pearl jus (38 euros).
  • Stuffed pigeon from La Demeure, celeriac smoked with olive wood (45 euros).
  • Organic spelled risotto from Aix-Provence, wild mushrooms and roasted hazelnuts (23 euros).

At the restaurant L’Envolée, sea bream with citrus fruits. | Jerome Mondiere

  • Matured cheeses from Maison Quatrehomme, seasonal condiment, young shoots (14 euros).

Homemade desserts (15 euros)

  • Strawberry and verbena dome, strawberry sorbet.
  • Rosemary pineapple pavlova.

Desserts from pastry chef Arnaud Larher (15 euros)

  • The Monte Cristo.
  • Toulouse Lautrec chocolate.
  • Citrus Cheesecake.
  • The Paris-Brest.

Lunch formulas from Monday to Friday: dish of the day at 29 euros, menus at 39 or 49 euros. Six-course menu at 120 euros. Closed Saturday lunchtime, Sunday lunchtime and evening.

La Demeure Montaigne is part of the Frontenac Group created in 1976 by Philippe Thomas. The other three establishments, the Hôtel Splendid Étoile, the Hôtel Rochester Champs-Élysées and the Hôtel Château Frontenac, all four stars, are located a few minutes’ walk from the Champs-Élysées.

A room at La Demeure Montaigne. | Jerome Mondiere

18, rue Clement Marot 75008 Paris. Tel.: 01 53 57 49 50. 93 rooms and suites from 480 euros. Spa Thalgo treatments, swimming pool, jacuzzi and hammam.

Restaurant Jacques Faussat

Disciple of Michel Guérard then Alain Dutournier at Trou Gascon (ten years spent in the kitchens of this establishment), this head chef, a child of the Gers, has earned his stripes as an artist of almost perfect plates by delivering a quintet of well-spiced preparations which have made its success in the Malesherbes district: a bare table, loyal customers pampered in a cozy and elegant atmosphere between paintings and hangings.

The dining room of the Jacques Faussat restaurant. | Helene Tharel

“I am committed to serving generous, tasty cuisine, punctuated by the seasons, tinged with exotic spices gleaned during my travels”, says Jacques Faussat, an artist of finished dishes.

A simple and quality cuisine, creative, with the right flavors, with a touch of audacity and the fundamentals of its dear Gascony. Sardines with black garlic mayonnaise, Racan pigeon flambéed with capuchin and pointed cabbage maki (42 euros), the admirable compression of potatoes with foie gras and truffle juice (36 euros) or even the soufflé hot coconut, punched pineapple and caramelized juice (16 euros) are essential items on the restaurant menu.

At the Jacques Faussat restaurant, compression of potatoes with foie gras, truffle jus. | Geoffrey Rembert

The Michelin could add the second star to the tasty and elegant score of this excellent cook who takes pleasure in going to see each of the customers, often restaurant regulars.

At the Jacques Faussat restaurant, Racan pigeon flambéed with capuchin and pointed cabbage maki. | Stephane Riss

A good trainer of frying pan professionals, Jacques Faussat hired the young chef Geoffroy Rembert, trained at the Bristol with Éric Frechon. The duo exchanges, creates, develops the menu (barely ten dishes), which guarantees an almost perfect follow-up. The Michelin could go back there.

Chefs Jacques Faussat (left) and Geoffrey Rembert. | Stephane Riss

Seasonal menu at 55 euros at lunch

Starters

  • Green asparagus, apple, tarragon milk, egg white.
  • The so-called butterfly sardine, sweet nettle, black garlic mayonnaise.

At the Jacques Faussat restaurant, semi-cooked mackerel, wasabi, horseradish, foam, wild garlic and dried orange. | Geoffrey Rembert

Dishes

  • Cod cooked in mother-of-pearl, printed rhubarb, iced fennel and celery mousseline.
  • Meat of the day, peas, balsamic meringue and black bread.

At the Jacques Faussat restaurant, hazelnuts of lamb on the seashore, chard maki and cream of celery. | Helene Tharel

Cheese or dessert

  • Homemade cheese, farmer’s Coulommiers, Bleu d’Auvergne, mascarpone, grapes, tonka bean and Espelette pepper.
  • Strawberry cabbage, lemon thyme cream and strawberry sorbet.

This golden address a stone’s throw from Parc Monceau has been recommended by Michelin as one of “the cheapest starred restaurants in Paris”. A visit is essential. “Retour des Champs 4-course tasting” menu at 75 euros. Card from 45 to 114 euros.

54, rue Cardinet 75017 Paris. Tel.: 01 47 63 40 37. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

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