A high-level bar on the roof of the former Louvre post office, and our other good addresses of the week in Paris

EAT WELL IN PARIS #70 — Restaurants, grocery stores, wine shops, pastries, cocktail bars… Our food critic distributes the “T”. This week on the test bench: Naturale, Le Comptoir de la Traboule, Bistrot Mee and Roof.

natural r

Here I am with my beak in the water in front of the restaurant where I had booked: a damaged pipe and hop, it’s closed. Annoyed, I notice the queues lengthening under the signs on rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière, and it is the sweet scent of fresh basil escaping from Naturale that convinces me to enter. Chance sometimes does things very well, the forza of destiny, as they say in Italy! Here, it’s either a slice of lasagna or a pizza al taglio, be one puccia (a kind of focaccia from Puglia) which forms the heart of the menu, served in original version by a Roman, Calabrian and Sicilian team. What a joy to find Neapolitan anchovies, wild oregano from Sicily and a good tomato sauce on a fine and crunchy homemade dough! The lasagna, available with artichokes as well as Bolognese, will be for another time, because excellent Arancini caught my eye: these rice balls stuffed with ragu finally have the right size (that of an orange) and the taste of my Sicilian childhood memories. Buonissimo!

40 bis, rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière, 10e. 09 81 67 62 83. Mon. to Fri. noon-9 p.m., Sat. 10.30 a.m.-7 p.m. Formulas already. €9.90-12.90.

The Counter of the Traboule q

A nice dish at the Comptoir de la Traboule.

Photo Antoine Vincens by Tapol for Télérama

One day, I will manage to visit all the restaurants on rue Augereau, a gastronomic providence in the 7th arrondissement, where, for example, the excellent Café de Mars is hidden, with its precious mini-terrace. In this neighboring counter, all tiled in white and with high unfinished wood tables, you can see Jules Monnet bustling about in the open kitchen as soon as you enter. The menu cheerfully mixes, among other things, Japanese inspirations (tataki of beef) and levantines (shoulder of lamb with granola of zaatar), which allows everyone to find a dish to their palate. Thus, the green asparagus hidden under a cream of smoked potatoes (good idea to replace the Hollandaise sauce!) are invigorated by a tangy touch of bottarga and wood sorrel, and the pork belly turns out to be tender, with a sweet mashed carrot with piquillo peppers. The chef who worked at Colorova, a good sweet address at 6e, the desserts hold up, like this original banana and Thai basil caramel brioche. To your forks!

1 bis, rue Augereau, 7th . 01 43 19 02 08. Tue. to Sat. noon-3 p.m. and 7 p.m.-11 p.m. Formulas already. €23-29, evening €50. Res. advised.

Bistro Mee r

At the Bistro Mee table.

At the Bistro Mee table.

Photo Antoine Vincens by Tapol for Télérama

The district between rue Sainte-Anne and rue d’Argenteuil was the birthplace of the capital’s first Japanese restaurants. Today, it welcomes more and more Korean establishments, including this one, which pleasantly renews the genre with its large wooden tables and its tapas-style portions allowing you to taste everything. Squid fritters, ravioli with pork and kimchi, Warm potato salad with small sardines and spices or, for those who aren’t afraid of the chilli, a stunning salad of whelks with watercress and cucumber: there’s plenty to explore Korean flavors for only 5 euros a plate . Then, a string of dishes, from the classic bibimbap crackling in its grilled mackerel bowl with its white radish, without forgetting an excellent japchae, Stir-fried translucent sweet potato noodles, served with beef and vegetables. A good address, friendly, with fast service, very useful after an exhibition at the Louvre or before a show at the Opéra Garnier!

5, rue d’Argenteuil, 1er. 01 42 86 11 85. Daily. 12 p.m.-2:30 p.m. and 7 p.m.-8 p.m. Formula already. €15, card €30 approx. Res. advised.

roof s

Roof, high altitude bar.

Roof, high altitude bar.

Photo Antoine Vincens by Tapol for Télérama

Here we climb to the top level of the rooftop: in the heart of the capital, on the roof of the former post office of the Louvre, where we came to send our mail at any time of the day and night. The city having changed a lot, the place has been renovated and partly converted into a luxury hotel (Madame Rêve) with its altitude bar. To climb it, you have to wait a long time in the line (no reservations) or avoid the weekend and prefer the opening hours… At the exit of the elevator, we observe two attitudes: those who remain unmoved, jaded with their rich lives; and those who (like me) go into ecstasies in front of a breathtaking panorama of the city: the Saint-Eustache church, the big pipes of the Center Pompidou, the dome of the Bourse du Commerce float in the gray sea of ​​Parisian zinc roofs. The place itself is wickedly nice, with a large bar and tables all around the rooftop and huge patio. Not to mention the green plants, the chairs woven with parigote, the blinds protecting from the sun or the rain and a full orientation is anti-sunburn at the end of the day. And in the glasses? It’s not really cheap (you pay for the view), but very good, with cocktails that do the job, like this gourmet On the Roof, a sort of piña colada with white Armagnac. The Roof is “phew”! — Laurent Jezequel

43, rue Etienne-Marcel, 1er. Daily. 5 p.m.-1 a.m. Cocktails €17-18, soft drinks €8-9.

Leave a Comment